When to go
Best: April – mid-June, Sept – early Nov
Worst: Jul & Aug (hot & humid), Dec-Feb (cold and polluted)
Also told that sand storms tend to come in the Spring. Well, I guess fall is the best!
Flights (from NYC)
At this time, there are two direct flights per day from the NYC area to Beijing. Continental has one flying out of Newark. Air China operates the other one, from JFK. You might see a listing of a United Airlines flight – don’t be fooled, it is the same flight as the Air China one, just a bit more expensive.
I have only been on the Continental flight since everyone seem to have something against Air China. One of these days, I will have to try it though. Continental’s business class easily cost up to 10,000 bucks while Air China goes for around 6,500…
Transportation to/from airport
I’d suggest getting hotel to pick you up from airport if this is your first time, or if you don’t speak Chinese. It saves you headache after a 14hr flight. Hotel cars (ask for the cheapest one) should be 250-300rmb (~45usd). If you take a cab, it will be half price. Which means on the way back, defintiely take a cab the airport is v. easy to explain.
The airport express train is up and running. It is a 15-20min ride into the city. There are two stops. I haven’t taken it yet, but from what I have heard, it looks clean and is quite a pleasant ride. Depending on where you’re staying in the city, you might want to look into it.
Getting Around Beijing
Cabs are cheap. Costs anything from US$1.5-5 if you are going within the city. Walking is a good alternative, but be prepared to walk a lot. One block can take 20 mins. Subways can be tempting for those from NYC; I’ve tried, and I have mixed feelings about them. It often takes you 15-20mins to walk to/from a station and on top of that, you’d have to fight to get on one (during peak hours). Not to mention fighting to get off one. Subways are very cheap, 2RMB to go pretty much anywhere.
You might also consider hiring a driver if you’re traveling with a family. It makes getting around the city much easier, and prices are v. reasonable. Within the city, you should be able to hire a driver (speaking some English) for ~$30 for the entire day. If including the great wall, they charge extra.
Hotels
NY Times has a good summary here of the latest developments. Finally, boutique hotels might be catching on.
5-Star Business Hotels
It’s important to stay in the right side of town if you’re having meetings in Beijing. Traffic is horrible and heading from one end to another will easier take 90mins or more. If you’re having meetings in both sides of town, it’s worthwhile even to switch hotels, if you can aggregate meetings in the same district.
To give a sense of price, you should expect to spend $250-350/night for a hotel room of this caliber. Not cheap, I know. But it’s actaully great value considering the level of service.
East Side:
China World Hotel – An excellent hotel if you’re looking for convenience. It is right in CBD (central business district), attached to a shopping mall with several good restaurants. The hotel is part of the Shangri-la group and has a few decent restaurants downstairs, including a good Italian restaurant in case you need a break from Chinese banquets. The hotel is HUGE, so a bit impersonal. Service is also sporadic if you speak English, but generally acceptable.
St. Regis – A more cosy version and real 5* service. They call themselves 6* to indicate that they are a notch above others. And they are, in my opinion. I’ve heard that the rooms are a bit old these days… They are located in the embassy district, and in a relatively quiet street.
Grand Hyatt – Really central location, connected to a high-end shopping mall and the subway station. Located in more of a retail area than business area.
The Westin Beijing Chaoyang – A bit on the outskirt, but very convenient in terms of transportation. Subway stop right in front of hotel. Situated by the 3rd ring road, and just 20mins cab ride from airport. Close enough to everything without being in the middle of it.
West Side:
Intercontinental (Financial Street) – Good solid hotel. For a long time, it was the only business hotel in the west side – still good.
Ritz Carlton (Financial Street) – Brand new hotel. I stayed there right when it opened and was a bit underwhelmed. Room not too practical (light switches all over the place), and aweful, aweful Italian restaurant. Not to mention everything is insanely expensive. The entire Financial Street area is brand new – was all construction while I was there.
Westin (Financial Street) – Another new hotel in the district. The hotel is a notch down from the Ritz in terms of services and facilities, but a fine 5* hotel. It’s also a notch down in pricing, so worth a look. I do have a complaint, however, that the room decor is more form than substance. The bathroom floods whenever I take a shower and there’s no way round it.
Near Zhongguancun, the Tech district
Wenjin Hotel – Quite a nice hotel next to the Tsinghua Science Park. I’d stay there if you’re going to be in ZGC region for a few days. I’d say it’s comparable to a solid 4* Marriot hotel in the US.
Jade Palace Hotel – A large Chinese style hotel for very reasonable price. I haven’t stayed there, but it looks ok.
Somerset Zhongguancun – Originally a service apartment where some rooms are converted into hotel rooms. Apartments are big and very nicely designed. Includes kitchen, washer and dryer and daily cleaning service. It’s very comfortable and great value, although don’t expect staff to speak English. Also, no business centers or restaurants. Not much in the neighborhood… Rooms go for about $100/night here.
Other Interesting Hotels
The Opposite House – Hotel located around the embassy district, right next to Sanlitun (the bar district). It is fantastic; the best I have stayed at so far. Decor resembles that of a loft and the smaller scale of the hotel gives a cosy feel. Service is top notch but not over the top. The only catch is that it is expensive. Even with discounts during low season, it still comes up to be 30-40% more than that of other 5-star hotels.
Cote Cour – Hotel based in Qing Dynasty traditional courtyard house. Nicely renovated and smack right in the middle of old Beijing. I stayed there for a weekend this time around – great if you’re on vacation. 14 rooms only, cosy and in middle of hutongs.
Legation Quarter – Hotel converted from old American Embassy, scheduled to open early 2008. From which I’ve read, it seems this will be extravagent and a bit excessive… we shall see.
Guxiang20 – Hotel based in a courtyard house also. A little larger, and more “commercial” than the Cote Cour. It’s near the Beihai region which is beautifully preserved and has been developed into an expat-type area with bars, coffee shops and restaurants.
Raffles Beijing – Old hotel with new management and renovation.
Peninsula Beijing – Newly renovated and in city center.
Food
Da Dong (address to come) – By far the best restaurant I’ve been in regards to food, environment, and service. It’s not overwhelming and there’s a certain calmness to it (vs. other Chinese restaurants). The Peking Duck is the best I’ve ever have, and also the leanest.
Pure Lotus Vegetarian restaurant – I am not usually a fan of vegetarian food, but this one is quite special. Tibetian cuisine; vegetarian food presented non-vegetarian… you can have “hot dogs”, sushi, barbeque pork, you name it. Zen-like environment, amazing decor, superb service and reasonable price.
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